Inseam shoe-sewing machine.



W. C. MEYER.

INSEAM SHOE SEWlNG MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED JULY24. 1912.

Patented Nov. 16, 1915.

3 SHEETS-SHEET I.

coumum PLANOGRAPH co., WASHINGTON, D. c.

W. C. MEYER. INSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY24. 1912.

Patented Nov. 16, 1915.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

f ll @imwm:

mwzw/ COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH 00.. WASHINGTON, n. c.

W. C. MEYER. INSEAM SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED JULY24. 1912.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

Patented Nov. 16, 1915.

COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH CO.,WASHINDTON, u. c

WILLIAM C. MEYER, OF BEVERLY,-MASSAGHUSETTS,. ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

INSEAM SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Nov. 16, 1915.

Original application filedJ'une 22.1910, Serial No. 568,248. Divided and this application filed'July 24, 1912.

Serial No. 711,227.

. scription, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a. specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

The present. invention relates to sewing machines, and more particularly to chain stitch shoe sewing machines employing a hook needle.

tion however, may be embodied with advantage in other machines, and it is to be understood that except as defined in the claims the invention is not limited to any particular machine or class of machines.

In chain'stitch hook needle sewing machines of the usual construction, the stitch is set by a takeup which exerts a pull on the thread against the strain exerted by the tension devices to set the stitch. Then a machine of this class, which is provided with a tension disk over which'the thread passes on its way to the stitch forming de vices, is run at high'speed, the tension disk is liable to overthrow at the end of the stitch setting stroke of the takeup, thereby causing a slackness in the thread between the tension disk and the work, which usually results in a loose seam or causes the machine to skip stitches.

The primary object of the present invention is to produce a chain stitch hook needle sewing machine having improved tension devices constructed and. arranged to control. the thread so that the stitch is set in a takeup, of means for locking theytensiong wheel to prevent overthrow thereof when Certain features of theinventhe takeup reaches the limit of its stitch setting movement. In the preferred form of the invention the mechanism for locking the tension wheel is actuated through suitable connections from the mechanism which actuates the takeup, so that the locking device is operated in timed relation to the movements of the takeup.

Further features of the invention consist of certain construct-ions, arrangements and combinations ofparts, the advantages of which will be obvious to one skilled in the art from the following description.

The several features of the invention will be clearly understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings illustrating a machineembodying the same in their preferred forms.

Figure 1 of the drawings is a' view in side elevation partly in section of the ma chine; Fig. Qis a view in side elevation of the machine, partly in section, looking in the opposite direction from that from which i Fig. 1 was taken; Fig. 3 is a detail view partly in section illustrating a portion of the thread tension mechanism; and Fig. i is a detail view in side elevation illustrating the brake for locking the tension. whenthe takeup reaches the limit of its upward stroke.

The machine illustrated in the drawings is a welt shoe sewing machine adapted to sew the welt and the upper to the insole of a lasted shoe. The principal parts of the machine are a curved hook needle entering the shoe from the outside so that the chain year welt and turn shoe sewing machine, the construction and mode of operation'of which is disclosed with substantial accuracy in the patent to'French & Meyer, No.

412,704. The thread finger and looper,how-

ever are arranged to cooperate with the needle to cause the needle to draw through the work what is known in the art as a straight loop instead of a twisted loop, and

responding 'parts in the well-known Goodthe tension device is arranged to exert a ward. stroke ofvthe takeup'is decreased the 1 I comparatively light tension on the threadduring the loop-drawing stroke ofthe needle, and a comparatively heavy tension during the stitch setting stroke of the takeup The'machine is also provided with a tension. governor similar to that disclosed in applicants Patent No. 1,030,743, dated June 515,673, filed September 1, 1909, ibyJwhich 25, 1912, granted on application, Serial No.

the tension on the thread is automatically varied with any change in the speed of the machine.

. The machine illustrated in the drawings comprises a curved hook needle 1, an awl 2,

a channel guide 3, a thread arm 4, a looper 5, and a welt guide 6. The parts above briefly referred to are constructed and arascends.

ranged in the same manner and operated by the same mechanism as the corresponding parts of the machine disclosed in Patent No. 1,059,380, dated April 22, 1913, application Serial No. 568,248, filed June 22, 1910, of which the present application is a division.

' Fora full and complete description of these parts, reference may be had to said application.

The takeup comprises a thread truck 7 mounted upon one arm of a bell crank 8. The other arm of the bell crank 8 is connected by a link 9 to a cam actuated bell crank 1O. The takeup performs the same function as the takeup of the machine disclosed in the patent to French & Meyer hereinbefore referred to, that is, it exerts a stitch setting strain on the preceding stitches 'while the needle is in the work, and also acts topull thread from the supply for the succeeding stitch. In its downward move ment the takeup delivers thread to the needle during the retracting stroke of the needle. It isdesirable in this type 'of machine that the needle pull the thread taut as it reaches the limit of its backward movement to shorten the preceding loop. To regulate the amount of needle pull on the thread, the machine illustrated in the drawings is provided with means whereby the thread delivering or down stroke of the takeup may be varied,

and tothis end the bell crank 8 is connected to the link 9 by a pin 11 which projects through a slot in the bell crank.

11 varies'the point to which the thread truck 7 descends without producing any substantialchange in the point to which the truck It will'be obvious that when the a downward stroke-of. the takeup is increased the pull exerted by theneedle on thethread itreaches the end of its backward stroke Wlll be .decreased, and that when the down- 5 pull of'the needle on the thread will be increased.

5 The auxiliary takeup, indicated atf12, is

mounted on ,a bell crank 13 which is pivg This slot is so arranged that an adjustment of the pin otally mounted concentric with. the main takeup lever. One arm of the bell crank 13 is arranged to engage a spring-pressed.

plunger ltwhen the auxiliary takeup is raised. The auxiliary takeup has the same mode of operation as the auxiliary takeup of the French 6: Meyer patent.

The tension devices of the machine illustrated in the drawings comprise tension disk 15 around which the thread passes, and

which is provided with peripheral projec-,

disks of this type have been provided with radial slots. The disk illustrated in the drawings is an improvement on the old form of disk in that the slots whichextend inwardly from the periphery of the disk are inclined to the radial lines of the disks so that the projections formed by the slots'are also inclined to the radial lines of the disk; \Vith this form of tension disk, the thread draws down to the-base of the projections more readily, so that a very slight tension on the thread causes the-thread to be securely gripped by the disk.- Also with this form of disk the thread more readily frees itself from the disk in passing to the takeup.

This will be apparent from an inspection of Fig. 1. Tocause the thread to be drawn down into the passageway formed by the projections of the disk 15 at the beginning of the sewing operation, an auxiliary tension The projections extendingjalterdisk 16 is provided, located above the disk v 15. The face of the disk 16 is engaged by a friction washer 17 which is pressed against the disk 16 by means of a sleeve 18 surrounding the stud on which the disk 16 is mounted, and acted upon by an adjustable coiled spring 19. The thread passes into the machine from the wax pot 20 of any suitable construction, over a thread guide 21,through a tube 22, under a guide 23, over the tension disk 16, around the tension disk15, over a guide roll 24;, under the auxiliary takeup 12, over the main takeup 7,:through the looper 5 to the work. The provision of the auxiliary tensionv truck 16 causes the thread to be tightly engaged by the tension disk 15 as soon as any strain is exerted upon the thread,

so that the thread isat once prevented from slipping around the tension disk 15, and the stitches at the beginning of the seam are sewn under full tension.

The tension disk 15 is rigidly secured to i a short shaft'to which is also secured afric- 1 tion disk or drum 25. Cooperating with the drum are two brakeshoes 26 and 27, which are actuated to retard the rotation of the tensiondisk-15 by mechanism similar to that disclosed in app'li'cants Patent No. 1,030,743 hereinbeforereferred to. This mechanismcomprises a: lever 28, two levers 29 and 30, provided wit-h adjustable abutments bearing on the upper'surface of the lever 28, a bar 31 pivotally' connected to the lever and resting on the lever 29,a"rod 32 engagingthebar 31, a springi38 acting on the rod 32, an adjust-able abutment sleeve 34 engaging the upper end of the spring 33,

an arm 35 engaging the lever 30, a rock shaft 36 to which the arm 35 is Secured, and a tooth 37 secured to the rock shaft 36 and engaging a correspondingly shaped recess in the hub of the cam actuated'bell crank 10 from which the takeup is operated. The parts above enumerated operate in the same manner as the corresponding, parts: of the mechanism disclosed in applicants Patent No. 1,080,743 to so'control therotation ofthe tension disk 15 as to produce a cemparatively 'lighttension on the thread during the loop drawing stroke'of the needle, and a comparatively heavy tension during the stitch setting stroke of the takeup. The parts above enumerated arethe same in construction and arrangement as they corresponding parts of the mechanism disclosed in applicants Patent No. 1,080,743, with the exception of the brake shoes 26 and 27, which in the present construction are arranged to engage diametrically'opposite portions of the friction drum 25. The lower brake shoe27 is supported at its front end from the frameof the machine by a link 38, the rear end of'the brake shoe 27 is connected by a link 39 totherearend of the brake shoe 26, and the forward end of the brake shoe 26 is connected bya link 40 to the-lever 28. By arrangingthe brake shoes in this manner they act in opposition to each other and eflectually' retard the rotation of the drum 25 and tension disk 15 without exerting any objectionable pressure on the shaft carrying the drum and disk.

In addition to the mechanism above described for controllingthe rotationof the tension disk 15, the machine illustrated in the drawings is also provided with means for locking the disk from rotation when the takeup reaches the limit of its upward stroke, and thereby'preventing any possibility of an overthrow ofthe tension disk at the end of the pulling off operation. Any overthrow of the tension diskis'liiglily objectionable, as thereby the thread between the tension disk andthe work is slackened, and either a loose seam is produced,'or the operation of the thread handling devices is interfered with and the machine skips stitches. By looking the tension disk against rotation at the end of the upward movement of' thetakeup, the machine can be runat a very high'rate of speed without any liability of the thread handling devices, and particularly the thread arm and looper, failing to manipulate the thread in the proper manner.

In, the construction illustrated in the-drawings, the means for locking the tension disk against rotation comprises a band brake 41- surrounding the friction drum 25. One end of the band brake 41 is connected to the frame of the machine at 42, and 'the other end is provided with a shoulder 43 whichis engaged by the lower end of a rod 44. This r'od at its upper end passes through a sleeve 45*clampedin the end of an arm 46. A spring 47 surrounds the rod 44 and is interposed between a collar on the rod and the lower endof'the sleeve 4-5. An oscillation of the arm 46compresses the spring 47 and actuates the rod 44 to bring the hand brake 41 into locking engagement with the drum 25. The rod 44 is moved in the opposite direction on the return movement of the arm 46by the engagement of the upper end of the sleeve 45 with adjustable stop nuts 48 on the upper end of the rod. The arm 46 is fast upon the rockshaft 36 hereinbefore referred to, and is provided with the tooth 37 which is engaged by the hub of the bell crank 10 which actuates the takeup.

The mechanism illustrated in the drawings for varying the tension on the thread when thespeed'of the machine varies comprises a governor constructed and arranged to operate in substantially the same manner as the governor of applicants Patent No. 1,030,743. This governor comprises two weights which are supported at the center joints oftoggle levers 50, the lower ends of the" toggle levers being pivotally conchine. The sleeve 53 engages the rear end i of a lever 54 which carries at its front end the adjustable abutment sleeve 84 which bears against the upper end of the tension illustrated in the drawings of the present invention, a spring 55 is provided which is a coiled around the shaft 52. The lower end of this spring rests upon the collar 51, while the upper end 'is engaged by an adjustable nut 56 screw threaded upon the exterior of the sleeve 53. By means of this construction the tension of the spring 55 can be adjusted, and thereby the amount of increase or decrease in the tension for any given variation in the speed of the machine can be ad1usted as may be dGSllBd.

, To relieve the thread of tension when the machine is stopped, the machine illustrated in the drawings is provided with a tension releasemechanism which, when the cam shaft of themachine is rotated by hand in the reverse direction, removes the brake shoes 26 and 27 from engagement with the friction drum 25, and also moves the sleeve 18 to relieve the disk 16 from frictional engagement with the washer 17. This tenengagement with the drum 25. An arm 61 projecting rearwardlv from the lever 58 is connected by a rod 6.1 to the horizontal arm of the bell-crank 63. The vertical arm of the bell crank 63 is pivotally connected to the sleeve 18, and the arrangement of the arm 61, rod 62 and bell crank 63 is such-that when the lever 58'is moved to raise the lever 28, theibell crank '63-is actuated to move the sleeve 18 outwardly and relieve the pressure ofthe friction washer 17 against the tension truck 16.. s j

,The nature and vobject of the invention having been explained, and the preferred embodiment ofthe invention having been described, what is claimed is 1. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in comb1nat1on,'st1tch forming devices including a hook needle, a stitch setting takeup operating while the needle is in the work, a thread tension wheel, means for causing the wheel to exert a stitch setting strain on the thread during the stitch setting stroke of the takeup, and means for locking the tension wheel to prevent overthrow when the takeup reaches the limit of its movement.

2. vA chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including' a hook needle, a stitch set-- ting takeup, a thread tension wheel, means for causing the wheel to exert a stitch setting strain on the thread during the stitch setting stroke of the takeup, a locking device for the a tension wheel, mechanism for actuating the two subscribing takeup and connections between said mechanism and the locking device for actuating the locking device to prevent overthrow of the tension wheel when the takeup reaches the limit of its movement 3., A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a stitch setting takeup, a thread tension wheel, means for causing the wheel to exert a relatively light tension onthe thread during the loopdrawingstroke of the needle and a relatively heavy tension on the thread during the stitch setting stroke of the takeup, a locking device for the wheel, and means for actuating said device to prevent overthrow of the tension wheel when the takeup reaches the limit of its movement.

4. A I chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in. combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a stitch setting takeup, a thread tension wheel, a friction disk rigidly connected with the wheel, a

brake acting on said disk to cause the wheel to, exert a stitch setting strain on the thread during the stitch setting stroke of the takeup, a brake band encircling the disk, and means for actuating said band to engage the diskand lock the tension wheel to pre-' vent overthrow of the tension wheel when the takeup reaches the limit of its movement.

r 5. A shoe sewing machine,having, in combinati0n,jstitch forming devices including a ,hook needle, a thread tension wheel, an auxiliary tension wheel over which the thread passes on its way to the tension wheel,

means for retarding the rotation of said wheels, and normally inactive means for s1- multaneously releasing the retarding means from both wheels to allow work tobe removed from themachine.

6. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices includinga hook needle, a thread tension wheel, an auxiliary tension wheel over which the thread passes on itsway to the tension wheel, means for retarding the'rotation of said wheels, and meansaotuated by a reversal in the direction ofrotation of the cam shaft of the machine for releasing the retarding means from both wheels to allow work to be removed from the machine.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification in the presenceof witnesses. 7 WILLIAM G. MEYER. Witnesses:

CHESTER E. Rocnas, RUTH E. WARD.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington. D. C. 

